There surely must be something in the air in Kolkata that leaves people hungry around midnight. That’s the best explanation I have, for the numerous dhabas rustling up food all through the night at the very heart of the city.

Whatever the case may be, eating out in the cool night air, after the traffic (both vehicular and human) have gone off the road is an experience in itself. Delhi’s parantha stalls are definitely very helpful for our National Capital’s night birds, but they are no match for the dhabas of Kolkata, particularly ones like New Sharma Dhaba , or Sharma’s as it is commonly known, at Ballygunge Circular Road.

In its older avatar, it was a roadside eatery for taxi drivers and daily wage labourers. But once the clubbing scene in Kolkata picked up, so did the clientele at Sharma’s. Sharma’s is a popular pitstop if you are hit by carb cravings at an ungodly hour. Be it something as meagre as a cold drink or as wholesome as a complete meal, you can have it all at Sharma’s all through the night.

Sharma’s is famous for its tea and the tea-crazy janta of Kolkata drive here from far flung areas for their nightly cuppa and a little storm over it. For those looking for something more substantial after all that hip-shaking, there are the freshly-cooked chicken bharta, chicken masala and tandoori chicken. The kebabs also taste good, and if you aren’t in the mood for messy curries just pick a roomali roll and chomp away.

Sharma’s is not only about meat-eaters and their taste. Recommended in the vegetarian section is the usual dal makhni-paneer-aloo affair. Try their tandoori aloo or, better still, the tandoori aloo roll. The potatoes, with a filling of paneer, are marinated in a garlic-based sauce and grilled in the tandoor. Served with mint and coriander chutney and shredded onions, this one is not your run-of-the-mill dish.

With lower prices and better chai Sharma’s has taken a lot of business away from Azad Hind, another midnight pitstop on the same road.

Looks like, beating the midnight tummy itch without burning a hole in your pocket was never easier.